Here is an easy project to start the New Year, a Cookbook Stand. Yeah, I know that reading from books is a dying art but cookbooks have a special place. And ours gets used frequently which means they are laying on the counter getting spattered, dusted, greasy and damp. This DIY Cookbook Stand will help keep it a bit above the fray and our of harms’ way. And you really only need a saw and chisel to do the job and no glue, nails, or screws needed for this project.

Tools and Materials

You will need a 36” piece of 1×10 or 1×12. You can choose your species. I used pine because it came easily to hand but you may want to use Cherry, Maple, Oak or Walnut, all would be great choices.

As far as tools you really only need a handsaw and chisel. I used my Radial Arm Saw to make the initial cuts and used a Japanese style pull saw to finish the cuts. I also used a router to radius the edges with a 1/8” Roundover Bit and an Orbital Sander with 220 Grit paper. No glue, nail or screws needed for this project. Click here to find out about the Japanese style saw.

Layout

Actual layout is not usually a big thing for a lot of the projects but this one is a bit different in that we need to make two intersecting pieces. So the first thing is to strike a line 2-1/2” up from the bottom.

Then use the mating piece as a gauge to mark the thickness. Last, strike a line halfway. With that done the box you drew is the part you will cut out. I usually mark the waste piece with several “X’s”.

Cutting

With the layout done you can clamp your piece in a vise and using a handsaw cut down to the halfway line on both pieces. I used a Radial Arm Saw to complete 95% of this sawing but I still had to use a Japanese style Handsaw to finish the cuts. Click here to find the saw!

Chiseling the Waste

With the cuts completed grab a ½” or ¾” Chisel and mallet and chisel away the waste. IT should pop out with one or two strikes. Click here to find a good set of chisels.

Routing

While not needed I chose to route the edges with a 1/8” Roundover bit to give the piece a softer feel.

Sanding

Final sanding is must for this project. I used my random orbit sander with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth the entire surface and get rid of the layout pencil marks. And I hand sanded the edges.

Finishing

As always you can choose your finish. Though I have to say varnish would be a top choice as it survives better in in the kitchen. My material is Pine so a very white wood. I added some Minwax Special Walnut stain to Paint thinner at about 50/50 to water it down. That give me the color density I was looking for. Then I applied a couple coats of spray lacquer. I’m pretty sure I’ll be going over it with varnish once the weather turns and the shop warms up (9F at the moment outside).